The top hat remains a go-to choice for asserting an elegant, theatrical or decidedly steampunk style — provided it is chosen well according to your body type and face shape. Whether you have a slender, tall build or a more generous frame, everyone can find the perfect model by playing with crown height, brim width and materials such as felt, leather or silk.
Summary Table: Choosing Your Top Hat According to Your Body Type
| Face shape | Crown height | Brim width | Avoid | Desired effect |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oval | Medium | All styles | No restrictions | General harmony |
| Round | Tall | Wide | Bowler hat | Visually elongate |
| Long or narrow | Low to medium | Short to medium | Too tall | Break the vertical line |
| Square | Medium | Medium | Too-soft brims | Soften angles |
| Heart-shaped | Medium to tall | Neat and rigid | Too tall | Balance the features |
What Is a Top Hat?
What is a top hat? A top hat is a tall, cylindrical headpiece with a brim that is often slightly curled, historically worn by gentlemen and dignitaries since the late 18th century. It is generally made from wool felt, beaver fur or silk, though modern steampunk creations favor leather, synthetic materials or custom versions adorned with metal ornaments.
The first historically documented top hat is said to have been created by English haberdasher John Hetherington in 1797, causing quite a scandal on the streets of London. Originally invented by country gentlemen for horse riding — featuring a chin strap for stability — it quickly became a symbol of the bourgeois class, of respectability and high social standing throughout the Victorian era. Worn with a frock coat or a dress coat, it immediately lent its wearer height and presence.
Fallen from favor at the beginning of the 20th century with the rise of casual wear, the top hat is today enjoying a genuine revival in the worlds of Victorian style, gothic and steampunk. Whether you want to complete a cosplay, assert your style at a convention, or simply add a retro-futurist touch of elegance to your wardrobe, the top hat remains a timeless choice.
Choosing According to Your Face Shape
The golden rule for choosing a top hat lies in the balance of proportions between the shape of your face and that of the hat. A well-chosen model can refine your features, lengthen your silhouette or correct certain characteristics you wish to minimise.
- Oval face: If you have an oval face — slightly rounded, with a forehead that is neither too large nor too small — you are in luck: this well-balanced facial shape allows you to wear almost any hat shape. Favor a medium crown height for a perfect result, and let your mood and personality guide the rest.Round face
- Round face: The goal is to visually elongate the face so as not to accentuate its rounded quality. Choose a top hat with a tall crown and wide brim, possibly turned up or asymmetrical, which will create an elegant contrast. Avoid the bowler hat at all costs — too round, it would reinforce the very effect you are trying to correct.
- Long or narrow face: If you have a long or narrow face, favor a model with a lower crown and a short to medium brim, possibly with a slightly asymmetrical shape that breaks the vertical line. A top hat that is too tall would further accentuate the length of your face, while a more understated model will add a touch of elegance without distorting your proportions.
- Square face: A square face is characterised by defined features and a relatively wide jaw. The goal is to soften the angles: opt for a hat that is fairly round, rigid enough, with medium brims that will temper the shape of your face. A medium crown height will be ideal to avoid flattening your forehead or creating an imbalance.
- Heart-shaped face: If you have a heart-shaped face, avoid hats that are too soft as they would exaggerate the features of a narrow jaw. Favor a hat with neat and rigid brims that will complement your facial structure: a fedora, a wide-brimmed hat, but avoid a top hat that is too tall as it would excessively lengthen your face.
Matching the Hat to Your Body Type
Beyond face shape, your height and build also influence the choice of the ideal top hat.
For Shorter People
If you are on the shorter side, favor a hat with a short brim and a tall crown. Too wide a brim will shorten your silhouette and make you look even smaller, while a tall crown will create a flattering verticality that visually lengthens your stature.
For Taller People
Conversely, if you are tall, opt for a hat with wide brims and a medium to low crown. A hat that is too small would create an unflattering imbalance with your silhouette, while a well-proportioned hat will enhance your natural presence.
Correcting Certain Features
Bear in mind that a well-chosen hat can draw attention away from certain insecurities. Prominent ears? Choose a hat with wide brims turned downward. A large forehead or prominent nose? Simply tilt your hat further forward. A top hat with a contrasting band can also draw the eye elsewhere.
Harmonising Colors and Materials with Your Outfit
In a steampunk look, the color and material of your top hat play a role just as important as its shape. A model in brown or dark tan leather will pair beautifully with worn leather pieces, utility belts, harnesses and accessories in bronze or copper, for a warm and industrial feel.
For a dark outfit dominated by black or charcoal grey, a black felt top hat in a gothic style will reinforce the dramatic look, especially if paired with chains, gears or steampunk goggles. Conversely, with a light-colored outfit, a cream, ivory or even red hat can become the centerpiece of the look, creating a dynamic contrast that is very much on trend.
Materials also offer infinite possibilities: wool felt for a classic and breathable style, leather for a robust and water-resistant finish, or even silk for grand formal occasions. You can personalise a basic model with a few DIY elements: gears, satin ribbons, small clock faces, feathers or veiling, for a unique result that matches your steampunk, Victorian or cabaret style.
The Top Hat for Women
Historically associated with bourgeois men, the top hat was gradually adopted by women, eventually becoming a powerful style accessory in contemporary fashion. Icons such as Marlene Dietrich popularised it in the 1930s by pairing it with a masculine tuxedo, creating a very modern contrast that remains to this day a source of inspiration for an elegant androgynous look.
Today, top hats for women come in a wide variety of shapes, colors and finishes, from a white model for a wedding to a red sequinned version for a party or show. Paired with a corset, a long skirt and elaborate accessories, it becomes a central element of the silhouette.
Women can thus play with masculine-feminine codes, wearing a top hat with a flowing dress, a tailored suit or a look inspired by Victorian dandies. Whether leaning toward a steampunk, cabaret, gothic chic or even a more understated everyday look, this hat offers a very broad creative palette for expressing one's personality.
Caring for and Storing Your Top Hat
A well-maintained top hat can last for decades and become a genuine heirloom piece. Care varies depending on the material of your hat.
Caring for a Felt Hat
For a wool felt hat, brush regularly counterclockwise to remove dust. In the event of a stain, use Sommières earth, a natural product that respects the qualities of felt (breathability, water resistance, suppleness). If your hat has gotten wet, shake off the excess water, stuff it with tissue paper and let it dry at room temperature, away from any heat source.
Caring for a Leather Hat
A leather hat is robust and water-resistant, requiring little maintenance. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove dust, then treat it with a leather-appropriate cream at least once a year. A maintenance spray or nourishing conditioner will help keep your hat looking its best over time. Avoid leaving it in direct sunlight, as this can cause it to shrink by a size.
Storage and Keeping
Always store your top hat on a hat stand or in a hatbox to preserve its cylindrical shape. Never place it on its brim, as this would permanently deform it. To reshape a slightly misshapen felt hat, hold it about 30 cm above a source of steam, then gently mold it back into shape.
Wearing a Top Hat Today
Wearing a top hat in the 21st century sometimes feels like slipping out of time — like a character who has stepped out of a Victorian novel or a steampunk adventure. On the street, the element of surprise is guaranteed, as relatively few hats are seen in everyday life, and fewer still are as spectacular as this one.
Top hats are most commonly seen at special events: steampunk conventions, concerts, festivals, stage productions, photo shoots, weddings or themed evenings. In these contexts, the hat integrates naturally into a broader costume ensemble, alongside accessories such as goggles, pocket watches or steampunk corsets, and becomes a genuine element of visual storytelling.
The top hat remains today a powerful symbol in popular culture, often used to represent capitalism, enterprise, ambition or the performing arts — especially magic. The magician's hat, made famous by Louis Comte when he produced a rabbit from it in 1814, perfectly illustrates this dimension of spectacle. Abraham Lincoln himself was fond of the stovepipe hat, a top hat that could reach up to 20 cm in height, in which he stored his speeches and notes.
It accompanies many fictional characters, from Scrooge (Dickens) to Uncle Sam, not forgetting the Mad Hatter from Alice in Wonderland, and also inspires artists such as Slash, Stevie Nicks, Tom Petty and the band ZZ Top. This spectacular hat is therefore perfectly suited to a rock-star or master-of-ceremonies look, while also being able, once set at home, to become a striking decorative detail in your personal universe.
Victorian Era: How It Inspires Steampunk
To further explore the style, you can also discover how a hat integrates into an overall steampunk outfit with the article Choose a Steampunk Hat, or play with the rest of the silhouette using the advice in the Steampunk clothing guide for men and steampunk clothing for women. For lovers of objects and interior decoration, articles on 14 tips for the perfect steampunk decoration or on steampunk clocks show how to transpose this same spirit into your home.
Another article on How to Wear a Top Hat can also be useful for moving from theoretical choice to trying it on in front of the mirror. Hat styles and shapes, combined with vestimentary decoration accessories such as steampunk goggles, pocket watches or mechanical jewellery, are an excellent way to take control of your costume from head to toe.
When well coordinated with the rest of your outfit and your silhouette, top hats can genuinely add to your stature and self-assurance. With so many styles, sizes, materials and colors available, there is bound to be a top hat for men or women that matches your universe.